This
e-book will show you how to harness the power of the sun and make your very own
solar heating system for your pool! Read thru and get the idea, then check out
your garage for supplies!
You
will need..
Some
hose pipe, (we used about 40’, but this is variable, the more the better)
Slow flo pump like a fish tank pump or sml
fountain pump (I used a 430lph model)
Loads
of 2” nails and a few screws
Chipboard
or similar about 3’ x 2’
Timber
to make sides of your box, each side of your chipboard. About 3” x 1” (not
critical)
Matt
black paint
Perspex
or Heavy duty plastic to cover box
2/4 old
fence posts or similar to mount box
Optional
timer to improve efficiency
Paint your chipboard matt black.
When it’s dry, form your hosepipe around this base using nails to hold it in
place. Make sure you have enough hose hanging out of your box to reach pool and
pump respectively. I used a rigid piece of pipe to join 2 hoses in my box. I
should add here that I have now spray painted my hose matt black as well.



Paint the sides of your box black as well and attach them to the base, making
holes just large enough for the hose to come through.



Screw
Perspex (or staple plastic) to top of box and you are ready to site your box.
Height of solar box is fairly critical. Your fish tank pump probably only has
an ability to pump thru about 75cm or so. Your box height must be no higher
than 75cm (or whatever your working head of water is) above the pump position
in the pool.
Ours is
sited at approximately the same height as the pool, a fraction higher. This may
be worth playing around with for a bit, since the height of the panel adjusts
the flow rate of the water. The slower the water flow, the higher the
temperature.
Then
connect up your pump in the pool water to the hose in the box and make sure you
have enough hose coming out of the box to reach your pool at the other end of
the hose!
Just to
get the most out of our panel, I have now installed a mechanical segment timer
at the plug and it comes on every 15 mins and then goes
off for 15 mins, making most of electricity and sun.
It also turns it off and on in the morning when the sun has been up for 20mins
or so and off in the eve.
Ours is
sited out of the way behind the pool and supported against a wall,
however 4 strong posts would be fine. The final position is slightly tilted
towards the sun, and if I did this again, I would tilt it a little further,
angle of 30° or so. (my posts need lowering slightly).
The
hose clips on the side are to prevent the hoses dropping down too far and
stopping the flow of water. Again, you can see I have a join in my pump pipe
because it wasn’t long enough!
Whatever
the temperature of your water coming out of the system, if it is hotter than
the pool water then you’re winning!!
You
will be surprised at the temperature the water will get too, too hot to hold
your hand under if you leave the pump off for a few minutes, hence my use of
the timer.
We have
taken our pool water from 15° when it was filled to 25° and this is ongoing so
I think it will go higher than this. (Latest temperature –
28°!)
To help
things, you can lay your pool on polystyrene and use a bubble cover to conserve
the heat you do make.

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Water
return hose Hose
leading to pump
Be sure
of the width of Perspex you can buy before you construct your box, our sheet of
Perspex was only just wide enough!!!
GOOD
LUCK!
UPDATE
– height of box may be important depending on strength of pump, play with this
before fixing permanently. Also air locks, you may have to prime your system
with hose pipe (ie mains pressure) and then change
back to your pump in a bucket of water to avoid introducing more air!
Also,
I have added another hose to this system now, in between the original hose –
twice as good! I have also spray painted it all black.
www.catralspain.com